What I Ate in Barcelona: Triumphs, Tragedies, and Travel Advice
Pundits have been declaring that Spain is the new France for years. That modern chefs look to Spanish cuisine for culinary innovation. I wanted to taste some of this revolution so I packed up my bags and flew to Barcelona in late October. I knew my trek was limited: I had neither the time nor the money to go Madrid, Valencia, or Basque country; El Bulli was closed; and wine country would have to wait for another vacation.
My short take: Yes, I had some terrific food. But I also chowed down on a few truly awful meals. In retrospect, I should have known that not every tapas joint serves up miracle morsels. Barcelona is like any city: You need to know where to go and when to go. Actually, you need reservations, a lot of money, and/or tons of patience because the most critically revered spots are mobbed. Even on Monday nights at 10pm. Below is a partial report, with original photos (like the gorgeous fruit bowl above), as well as tips for anyone thinking about visiting Barcelona.