Feeding the Flame

While on a skiing trip in Deer Valley, Utah, I discovered the ultimate in aprés-ski dining: the ancient art of fireplace cooking. This barebones technique was on display at the Empire Canyon Lodge's Fireside Buffet, where five hearths each featured a specialty dish.

Two fireplaces were set up for raclette, the classic Swiss supper of melted cheese, boiled potatoes, and cornichon. Half wheels of the cheese sat atop custom-made cheese holders. Cradled just far enough from the fire, the raclette dripped onto awaiting plates. With plenty of salami, bresaola, prosciutto, house-made strawberry chutney, and bread on the side, this could have been my entire meal.

Next was the stew fireplace. Actually many stews: A tender, earthy veal and wild mushroom stew, roasted root vegetable stew, and roasted quail, braised red cabbage, and rösti potatoes. They were all deicious. Off to the side was a salad bar with terrific bread and flavored butters.

Then there was the lamb fireplace. Three legs of lamb roasted near an open fire with dishes underneath to catch the jus. Heat from the fire created enough movement to keep the legs spinning and cooking evenly. It was like the original instant rotisserie! When the twirling slowed, it was time to stoke the fire. The lamb was then transferred to the carving station and served with fantastic, creamy rosemary polenta, some green beans, and, of course, the jus.

After a horse-drawn sleigh ride around the mountain we warmed up at the dessert fireplace, home to three sweet sauces—chocolate, caramel, and white chocolate with Grand Marnier—served up in individual ramekins. A nearby table held fruit, cookies, and cakes for dipping.

Thank goodness I had a good solid day of skiing ahead of me the next day!

—Janet McCracken, associate food editor